Isle Royale is, and will always be, ‘The Island’
By Rear Commodore Nelson Stone
The first time I saw Isle Royale was from the deck of a 21-foot sailboat. That was more than 40 years ago now, and I would have to dig through my logs to find out how many other trips have been made to “The Island” since then.
The Island. Yes, it’s capitalized, because that is the way we speak of it. As in, “ ‘Where have you been?’ ‘Oh, up to The Island’.’ “
Now if you say “I’m going to the Islands” that may likely mean the Apostle Islands. So, listen carefully as I talk about “The Island.”
Since we are all good GLCC members, we will always start with the Harbor Reports. Well, let's go. Reports S-150 to S-181 are all Isle Royale reports. S-150 will give you all the history and entry information in a much better form than I can. But, before you even get to that point, we need an answer to one question; “Is all the effort to get to Isle Royale, or even to Lake Superior, worth the time and effort?” I can only answer that with my very prejudiced opinion: Yes, it is!
I have cruised on both lakes Huron and Michigan, and I have enjoyed all of those trips. The small towns and charming marinas are a wonder and just fun to visit. The bays of the North Channel are beautiful. The northern portion of Georgian Bay is as close to the North Shore of Lake Superior as I have experienced on the lower lakes. But it is still not the same as a trip on Glitch Gummy.
What is different? Solitude! And while the ultimate solitude experience is the Canadian North Shore of Lake Superior, the next best is Isle Royale.
For many Lake Superior boaters, a trip to Isle Royale is a rite of passage. An open water passage, a wilderness retreat, a mystical fishing experience, a scuba dive into the past, or a hike along one of the many trails.
Isle Royale is a U.S. national park, the least-visited of all national parks in the United States. Isle Royale gives each visitor ample opportunities to experience nature.
As a boater, you get to see the topography from the water side. You have the chance to slip into either McCargo Cove (S-159) or Chippewa Harbor (S-172) and become enclosed by the island itself. There is the sheer wonder of cruising into Washington Harbor past Rock of Ages Lighthouse (S-163), the chance encounter with the many moose of the island.
No, I have never seen a wolf, but I have heard one a time or two.
Years ago, I found myself with a number of my confirmation students at the dock at Windigo Ranger Station, Washington Harbor. It was breakfast, and the Midship 25 that we were aboard was tied up to the dock in the morning sunshine. The kids were having breakfast on the dock. We had a tarp spread out, and I was passing up pancakes by the grill-full. They seemed to disappear as fast as they cooked.
All of a sudden, a head appeared in the hatchway, and the voice asked, “Enough to share?” The answer was to pass up another plate full. Little did I know that I had just met someone who would become a lifelong friend, the start of a relationship that would include thousands of lake miles traveled together and a relationship with the Great Lakes Cruising Club that lasts to this day.
I would not know this until years later, when on a very cold winter day, my wife and I bought our third cruising boat from the same man and learned his name, Bill Rohde.
All in all, Isle Royale National Park is truly a jewel in a lake that is a wonder. A visit is a chance of a lifetime. For some of us, it is an opportunity for an annual renewal. I am going to stop here because Isle Royale is the appetizer for the next adventure, which is the Canadian North Shore, but more on that in a later article.
So, come to the Rendezvous this summer, then travel to “The Island” and become another convert to the wonders of Isle Royale. Join the ranks of Great Lake cruisers who have been trapped by the lake called Superior.